The Sampot
The sampot is a long, rectangular cloth worn around the waist, which can be draped or folded in a variety of ways, and is generally made out of silk. It is similar to other skirt-like garments found across the continent, and strongly resembles the Indian dhoti.
The roots of this esteemed garment can be traced back to ancient times, and are visible in the walls of the temples of Angkor, where the bas-reliefs depict angels and goddesses donning sampot-like skirts. The actual origins are thought to be even more remote: they first came into use during the Funan era (first century AD 550), when a Cambodian king, hoping to please a Chinese envoy visiting his realm, commissioned all his subjects to wear the garment.
Any discussion of the sampot must address the different silk weaving techniques used throughout Cambodia, as they are paramount to Khmer culture and key to understanding the significance of the sampot within Cambodian society. Records show that looms have been used to weave textiles in the area since ancient times. Complex methods and intricate patterns have been developed over the centuries, and the craft has evolved to become a rich tradition and a complete artistic medium.
There are two major Cambodian silk weaving techniques: the ikat design and the uneven twill. The ikat design technique is a laborious method used for patterned textiles. Patterns are made by tying natural or synthetic fibers on the weft threads and then dyeing them. The uneven twill, on the other hand, is a much quicker method that yields single or two-colour fabrics.
Over the centuries, Cambodians have created many variations of the sampot using these techniques. The sarong is the most common,
worn by both men and women. It measures approximately one and a half metres and both ends are sewn together. It is tied to secure it on the waist.
The sampot chang kben is the preferred choice for special occasions, such as weddings and funerals. Until the beginning of the last century, it was widely worn by women of the highest social class. Unlike the typical sampot, the chang kben is more like pants than a skirt. It is a rectangular piece of cloth three metres long and one metre wide. It is worn by wrapping it around the waist, stretching it away from the body and twisting it into a knot. The knot is then pulled behind the legs and held by a metal belt.
During your stay in the Kingdom, don't forget to scour the local markets and tailors for the perfect sampot to add to your wardrobe. With such great variety in patterns and styles of cloth, you are bound to find one that not only matches your taste, but represents a truly significant aspect of Khmer culture and history.
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