Kaffetåren
Have you ever had a cup of pot-boiled coffee? In that case, have you ever had it with coffee cheese,
coffee meat, dried meat and reindeer tongue? In Arjeplog, they're brewing up a genuine Kaffetår.
arjeplogs vilt & kafe is in the town square, just a stone’s throw from the Silver Museum and the church. Here, you have the chance to enjoy a truly unique coffee experience; just ask for a Kaffetår. Café owners Helena and Johnny Johansson had run their game meat shop in Arjeplog for many years.
But they dreamed of developing the concept and opening a café. Their shop on Drottninggatan wasn’t quite the right location for a café, so they waited. Nearly two years ago, an opportunity presented itself and they jumped at the chance to take over the old café on the square.
– As soon as we decided to open, we knew we wanted to do it our way, said Helena, when I walked in and ordered the Kaffetår. Of course, the duo had decided that the café would also feature the product range from the game shop. This would give patrons a chance to taste the products, but also to experience old traditions. The names of some of their sandwiches also echo their food philosophy: genuine and generous. With virtually untranslatable names like Full Rulle, Sjön Suger, Rentjur’n and Älgstud sar’n, all we can say is that these game meat and fish-based sandwiches are served in man-sized portions. Naturally, for those with a taste for the northern lifestyle, boiled coffee is also served. But Helena and Johnny do it their way, concocting something called Kaffetåren.
Boiled coffee with a refill, dried meat, coffee meat, reindeer tongue and coffee cheese. These are all classic accompaniments to arctic coffee. Personally, I haven't always been a fan of dried meat with coffee, because it is a bit lean, usually salty and slightly smoked. On the other hand, I love the other
ingredients. The coffee meat, preferably a bit fatty, so that it absorbs the coffee, leaving a few droplets of fat on the surface, is very comforting on a rugged autumn day. And reindeer tongue is
always good. It is fatter and tenderer than other tongue. Moose tongue, for example, must be boiled for hours, while reindeer tongue cooks at a fraction of the time. In the coffee the warm fat of the tongue melts on your palate in the most wonderful way.
In this part of the world, coffee cheese is a favourite. A bit like mozzarella, it is a soft cheese made
from unpasteurized milk. Some people fry or grill it, but the cheese that Helena and Johnny sell is baked in the oven. I like it best when it is served fresh. Anyhow, whether fried, baked or fresh,
the great thing about coffee cheese is its somewhat unusual consistency, it squeaks between your teeth when you chew it.
After my second refill of boiled coffee I take a look around the shop. Although I'm not fond of it in coffee, dried meat is on my shopping list. I like it just as it is; sometimes, with a whisky. A coffee
cheese goes into my shopping basket. As for coffee meat, at home I have a side of ribs and a moose calf, so I refrain. But reindeer tongue?
–You're in luck. It’s slaughter time and four tongues came in just yesterday, says Helena.
– Okay, I'll take them all. Christmas is coming and no Christmas table is complete without reindeer tongue.
– It certainly is good! So, I head for home. This evening I will boil tongue and roast some coffee meat. And if you ever consider doing this, I have an important piece of advice. You must never eat the tip of the tongue. According to Sámi custom, that is strictly taboo; because if you do, you may start felling lies.
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